Cosmetics Testing

Cosmetics testing shows that a product stays microbiologically safe throughout its use, delivers the performance it claims and contains no restricted substances. There is NO PRODUCT APPROVAL in this family: no authority approves a cosmetic product; responsibility rests entirely with the manufacturer and with the responsible person established in the EU.

This responsibility model shapes how the field works. Before the product is placed on the market a product information file (PIF) is prepared, a safety assessment (CPSR) is carried out and notification is completed. Inspection comes afterwards and asks for the file; if the file is incomplete the product is withdrawn from the market. Test reports form the evidence base of that file.

On the microbiological side there are two different questions and each is answered by a separate test. The CURRENT microbiological quality of the product is measured by enumeration and testing for specified microorganisms. The EFFECTIVENESS of the preservative system is examined by deliberately inoculating the product with microorganisms (challenge test): can the product resist repeated contamination throughout its use? A jar of cream is touched by a finger at every use; the preservative system must cope with that.

On the performance side, claim substantiation studies are carried out. For sunscreens, determination of SPF and UVA protection and measurement of water resistance are mandatory and are the basis of the value declared on the label. Evidence is also produced by in vivo or in vitro methods for claims such as moisturisation, appearance of wrinkles, hair care and colour retention.

On the chemical side, banned and restricted substances are screened: heavy metals, prohibited colorants, preservative concentrations, UV filter levels and contaminants such as nitrosamines. Products containing nanomaterials carry a separate notification obligation.

The BAN ON ANIMAL TESTING is the most defining constraint of the field. Animal testing cannot be carried out on finished products or ingredients, and a product tested on animals cannot be placed on the market. Alternative in vitro methods (reconstructed human skin models, cell culture based tests) are therefore at the centre of the field, and toxicological assessment rests largely on existing data, read-across approaches and in vitro results.

Stability and packaging compatibility studies determine shelf life and the period after opening (PAO). The interaction of the product with its packaging is also assessed: an active substance may migrate into the packaging, and substances that should not be present may pass from the packaging into the product.

On the process side, good manufacturing practice is demonstrated through ISO 22716; this is separate from product testing but a mandatory part of the file.