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Footwear and Leather Testing · Physical

Tear

TS EN ISO 13937-1 (textile — ballistic pendulum, Elmendorf)TS EN ISO 13937-2 (textile — trouser-shaped sample, single tear)TS EN ISO 13937-3 (textile — wing-shaped sample)TS EN ISO 13937-4 (textile — tongue-shaped sample, double tear)ASTM D1424 (Elmendorf)ASTM D2261 (tongue tear)TS EN ISO 3377-1 / -2 (leather — single and double edge tearing load)TS EN ISO 2418 / 2419 (leather — sampling and conditioning)
Footwear and Leather Testing laboratory work

What Is Tear?

Tear strength testing measures the force required to advance a previously made cut in the material. It is a different property from tensile strength: the rupture test shows the load-carrying capacity of the entire material, and the tear test shows the resistance of an existing damage to propagation. In use, damage often starts from a small cut, so tear resistance is more decisive in practice. Different standards are used in textiles and leather and their results are not comparable.

Purpose of Tear

The purpose is to determine how well the fabric resists the growth of minor damage that occurs in use and to verify specification compliance.

Which Products Is Tear Applied To?

  • Outerwear and workwear fabrics
  • Home textile and upholstery fabrics
  • Tents, awnings and tarpaulins
  • Technical and industrial textiles
  • coated fabrics
  • Shoe upper leathers and saddlery leathers

In Which Sectors Is Tear Used?

TextilesRetailConsumer ProductsDefenceAutomotiveConstructionLeatherFootwear

Standards Related to Tear

  • TS EN ISO 13937-1 (textile — ballistic pendulum, Elmendorf)
  • TS EN ISO 13937-2 (textile — trouser-shaped sample, single tear)
  • TS EN ISO 13937-3 (textile — wing-shaped sample)
  • TS EN ISO 13937-4 (textile — tongue-shaped sample, double tear)
  • ASTM D1424 (Elmendorf)
  • ASTM D2261 (tongue tear)
  • TS EN ISO 3377-1 / -2 (leather — single and double edge tearing load)
  • TS EN ISO 2418 / 2419 (leather — sampling and conditioning)

Tear Conditions

Conditioning
ISO 139 in textiles (20 °C ± 2 °C, 65 ± 4% relative humidity); ISO 2419 on leather
Orientation
In textile, warp and weft, in leather, parallel and perpendicular directions to the spine are measured separately.
Method selection
The pendulum method is suitable for thin fabrics, the methods with a pulling device are suitable for heavy fabrics and leather.
Thickness
The result on the skin depends on the thickness; Thickness is measured and reported

Equipment for Tear

  • Elmendorf ballistic pendulum device
  • Constant elongation rapid tensile tester
  • Tear test jaws and pins (for leather)
  • Sample cutting die and templates
  • Thickness gauge
  • Conditioning chamber

Sample Requirements for Tear

  • Separate sample sets for each direction (warp/weft in textile, parallel/perpendicular to the spine in leather)
  • The number of repetitions prescribed by the standard (varies depending on the method)
  • Textile samples should be cut by sliding so that they do not contain the same warp or weft threads.
  • The skin sample should be taken from the area defined in ISO 2418 and its thickness should be measured.
  • The initial incision should be made at the length and position defined in the standard.

Duration of Tear

The experiment itself is short; sample preparation and conditioning determine the duration. As the number of methods and directions increases, the total time increases.

Tear Procedure

  1. 1The samples are conditioned and cut by marking according to direction.
  2. 2The initial incision defined in the standard is opened.
  3. 3The sample is connected to the device as prescribed by the standard.
  4. 4The pendulum is released or the jaws are separated at the defined speed.
  5. 5The tear force is recorded; In methods with tensile devices, the peak values ​​are averaged.
  6. 6Results for each direction are reported separately.

Tear Acceptance Criteria

The acceptance criterion is the minimum force value in the product standard or customer specification. The test standard defines the method, not the passing value.

Evaluation of Results

Directional results are evaluated separately; usually one is significantly lower and determines the weakness of the product. Results obtained with different methods (pendulum, tongue, single/double edge) cannot be compared numerically; The specification should clearly state which part of which standard is required.

Tear Report

  • Sample description, material type and structure
  • Applied standard section and sample format
  • Individual and average force values ​​(N) for each direction
  • Skin thickness and N/mm result if necessary
  • Standard deviation and coefficient of variation
  • Conditioning conditions

Accreditation

EUROLAB holds internationally recognised accreditation obtained from accreditation bodies party to the IAF and ILAC multilateral recognition arrangements, under ISO/IEC 17025 for laboratory testing, ISO/IEC 17020 for inspection and surveillance, and ISO/IEC 17021-1 and ISO/IEC 17065 for system and product certification. This chain ensures the reports and certificates issued are accepted worldwide.

Whether this test can be offered within accredited scope depends on your product and the standard applied; since accreditation is method-based, the scope is confirmed in writing at the quotation stage.

Scope and authorisations

Related Regulations

This test is a method standard and is not directly linked to a legislative provision; Whether it is mandatory or not is determined by the legislation to which the product is subject and the customer specifications. The legislation applicable to your product is notified in writing along with the scope at the proposal stage.

Footwear and Leather Testing — What Does This Testing Field Cover?

The section below describes the field that the Tear test belongs to; the conditions and acceptance criteria of this particular test are given in the sections above. The scope specific to your product is confirmed in writing at the quotation stage.

Footwear and leather testing assesses the physical durability and chemical safety of a product together. Footwear is a MULTI-COMPONENT product: the sole, upper, lining, insole, heel and bonding line are tested both individually and together. One component being good does not mean the product is good; failure usually appears where components join.

On the physical side, the most common field failure is SOLE-UPPER SEPARATION. Bond strength is therefore the most critical measurement in the field and is a direct indicator of the bonding process (surface preparation, adhesive selection, pressing conditions). Next come sole abrasion and flex resistance: a shoe is flexed hundreds of thousands of times over its life.

Slip resistance is the most important parameter for safety and its measurement depends on the surface: wet ceramic, oily steel and dry floor give different results. Slip resistance is therefore reported not as a single number but with the surface and the direction of slip stated.

A separate body of work applies to protective footwear, and this is the most commercially critical distinction. Toe protection (impact and compression), penetration resistance, antistatic behaviour, heat and cold insulation, electrical insulation and fuel resistance are assessed under personal protective equipment requirements. CE is mandatory for these products and the category must be chosen correctly; an ordinary footwear test report does not satisfy that file.

On the chemical side, CHROMIUM (VI) has a special place in leather. The chromium (III) used in tanning can oxidise into chromium (VI) during storage and ageing; that is, a leather that was compliant at production may exceed the limit months later. The time of measurement and the history of the sample therefore affect the result, and measurement after ageing may be required.

Other chemical items are aromatic amines from azo dyes, pentachlorophenol, short-chain chlorinated paraffins, dimethyl fumarate and phthalates. These items come from REACH restrictions and brand restricted substance lists.

There is NO CE marking on consumer footwear; the obligation runs through material composition labelling, compliance with chemical restrictions and general product safety. Labelling has a rule of its own: the type of material used for the upper, the lining and insole and the outer sole is shown by pictograms.

Comfort and functional claims (waterproofness, moisture management, breathability) are supported by separate tests, and these claims require evidence if used in marketing copy.

Method groups in this field

  • Bonding and strength

    Sole-upper bond strength, seam strength, heel attachment strength, strap and buckle strength.

  • Abrasion and flexing

    Sole abrasion, flex resistance (dry and at low temperature), insole abrasion.

  • Slip resistance

    Forward and backward slip measurements on wet ceramic, oily steel and dry floor.

  • Protective properties

    Toe impact and compression resistance, penetration resistance, antistatic behaviour, heat and cold insulation, fuel and chemical resistance.

  • Leather chemistry

    Chromium (VI), azo dye amines, pentachlorophenol, short-chain chlorinated paraffins, pH and fat content.

  • Comfort and function

    Waterproofness, water vapour permeability, moisture management, colour fastness and the effect of perspiration.

Commonly confused in this field

  • Footwear claiming a protective function falls under PPE legislation and requires CE; a consumer footwear test report does not satisfy that file.
  • A chromium (VI) result depends on the age of the sample and its storage conditions; leather compliant at production may exceed the limit later.
  • Slip resistance is not a single number; it cannot be interpreted without stating the surface and the direction.
  • A result obtained for one component does not cover the whole product; the joints are tested separately.
  • Labelling rules run on material pictograms; an incorrect pictogram causes problems in customs and market surveillance.
  • A waterproofness claim is not verifiable unless the test used and the number of flex cycles after which it was measured are stated.

Which decisions these results support

  • Compliance with the brand restricted substance list
  • The PPE category and CE file for protective footwear
  • Supplier and lot-based acceptance control
  • Root cause analysis of field complaints (bond opening, sole separation)
  • Substantiation of functional claims

Related Tests

Frequently Asked Questions About Tear

If the tensile strength is high, will the tearing also be high?

It may not happen. A tightly woven fabric may have high tensile strength but low tear strength; Since the threads cannot move, the load is concentrated at a single point. The two properties are measured separately.

Which method should I choose?

If your specification specifies a method, it is used. If not, the material and weight are decisive: The Elmendorf pendulum has a limited capacity and is inadequate for heavy fabrics; In this case, the trouser or tongue method with a traction device is preferred. For leather, ISO 3377 is used.

Is the leather result comparable to the fabric result?

Incomparable. ISO 13937 and ISO 3377 use different sample geometry and different loading methods. Even within the same product family, only results obtained with the same part of the same standard are compared.

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